It sounds so much less posh than oeffs mayonnaise, but that’s what it is, and it’s having a moment, at least in New York.
The most Instagrammed restaurant dish in the city is a $19 serving of two boiled eggs. They are halved and set face down before being blanketed with downy mayonnaise, a sprinkling of trout roe, and snips of chive. They are on the menu at the Far West Village brasserie Libertine, and they are not even the most opulent or expensive eggs in town. The Four Horsemen in Williamsburg serves a single egg, cut in half, on a bed of diced kohlrabi, cloaked in a marbled mixture of mayonnaise and squid ink, punctuated with small mounds of Osetra caviar. It costs $25. - Grub Street.
I don’t know that I would pay twenty-five American dollars for eggs-n-mayo, no matter how fancy. But I do love it as a dish. I ordered it time and again when we were in France late last year, and it never disappointed.
To be honest, I started ordering it because I was chasing protein, trying to hold onto the muscle I’d built over the previous months of weightlifting, and the French are not generous with the mightiest macro. They’re better than the Italians, but not by much.
So a whole plate of eggs? Fuck yeah, I’m in.
But having ordered my first round at Le Bon Georges, I just couldn’t help ordering them everywhere else I found them, which was pretty much everywhere.
Weird then that I haven’t eaten them since getting home. I mean, it’s a pretty simple deal. Boil some googs and blurt out some mayo. I suspect they’d go very nicely with fluffy white bread.
You don’t have to go wild like this extortionate madness from the aptly named Four Horsemen in New York, which comes with squid ink mayo and two spendy dollops of caviar. But I could see myself maybe spooning some cut-price lumpfish roe onto my sanger.
